YOU WILL NEED
plastic
water tank with pump and level sensor. control circuit,
wiring, connectors, and epoxy. reaction chamber with electrodes
and fittings. 3/8" stainless steel flex-tubing, fittings
and clamps. carb/FI vapor-pressure fitting kit. - pressure,
CHT (or EGT), & level gauges. stainless steel valves.
copper mesh junction. ceramic surface treatment for cylinders
& pistons. stainless steel or ceramic treated exhaust
assembly.
BASIC
TOOLS
drill,
screwdriver and pliers hole cutter wire-wrap, solder-iron
and clippers DVM and oscilloscope.
REACTION
CHAMBER
Construct
as shown in the diagrams. Use a section of 4" PVC waste
pipe with a threaded screw-cap fitting on one end and
a standard end-cap at the other. Make sure to drill-and-
epoxy or tap threads thru the PVC components for all fittings.
Set and control the water level in the chamber so that
it well submerses the pipe electrodes; yet leave some
headroom to build up the hydrogen/oxygen vapor pressure.
Use stainless steel wires inside the chamber or otherwise
use a protective coating; use insulated wires outside.
Ensure that the epoxy perfects the seal, or otherwise
lay down a bead of water-proof silicone that can hold
pressure.
The
screw fitting may require soft silicone sealant, or a
gasket; its purpose is to hold pressure and allow periodic
inspection of the electrodes. No leaks, no problems. Make
sure you get a symmetric 1-5mm gap between the 2 stainless
steel pipes. The referenced literature suggests that the
closer to 1mm you get, the better. You will want to get
your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the
cap on.
Make
your solder connections at the wire/electrode junctions
nice, smooth, and solid; then
apply
a water-proof coating, e.g. the epoxy you use for joining
the pipes to the screw cap. This epoxy must be waterproof
and be capable of holding metal to plastic under pressure.
You will want to get your chamber level sensor verified
before you epoxy the cap on.
CONTROL
CIRCUIT
The
diagrams show a simple circuit to control and drive this
mini-system. You are going to make a 'square-pulse' signal
that 'plays' the electrodes like a tuning fork; which
you can watch on an oscilloscope. The premise given by
the literature is: the faster you want do go down the
road, the 'fatter' you make the pulses going into the
reaction chamber. Duty cycle will vary with the throttle
in the vicinity of 90%MARK 10%SPACE (OFF/ON).
There
is nothing sacred about how the pulse waveform is generated;
there are many ways to generate pulses, and the attached
diagrams show a few. The diagram shows the NE555circuit
approach from the referenced patent. The output switching
transistor must be rated for 1-5 amps @ 12VDC (in saturation).
Go
with a plan that works for you or your friendly neighborhood
technoid or mechanic, and go get all the circuit elements
from your local electronics store, such as Radio-Shack
or Circuits-R-Us, including the circuit board, IC sockets,
and enclosure/box.
DigiKey
has better selection, service, and knowledge; plus they
have no minimum order. Be sure to use a circuit board
with a built-in ground plane, and to accommodate room
for mounting 2 or 3 of the gauges. Mounting the reaction
chamber in the engine compartment will require running
a stub to your pressure gauge where you can watch it.
You
can easily make 30-gauge wire-wrap connections between
the socket pins and thru-hole discrete components having
wire leads. Also make sure to get spec sheets on any IC
you use. More details of the best circuits to use will
be announced pending prototype testing. You will want
to get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy
the cap on.
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