Throttle
Control
If
you have a throttle position sensor, you should be able
to access the signal from the sensor itself OR from the
computer connector. This signal is input to the circuit
as the primary control (i.e. throttle level = pulse width
= vapor rate).
If
you don't have such a signal available, you will have
to rig a rotary POT (variable resistor) to the gas linkage
(i.e. coupled to something at the gas pedal or throttle
cable running to the carb or FI. If you make the attachment
at the carb/FI, be sure to use a POT that can handle the
engine temp cycles. Don't use a cheezy-cheapy POT; get
one rated for long life and mechanical wear; mount it
securely to something sturdy and stationary that will
not fall apart when you step on the gas.
Control
Range. The full throttle RANGE (idle-max) MUST control
the vapor rate, i.e. pulse-width (duty). The resistor
values at the throttle signal must allow the throttle
signal voltage, say 1-4 Volt swing, to drive the VAPOR
RATE. You will be using this voltage swing to generate
a 10% ON 'square' pulse. The patent implies using a 'resonant'
pulse in the 10250 KHz frequency range; but it is not
explicitly stated so.
In
this circuit, you will simply tune to whatever frequency
makes the most efficient vapor conversion. You will have
to get into the specs for each IC you use, to insure you
connect the right pins to the right wires, to control
the frequency and pulse width. You can use spare sockets
to try out different discrete component values. Just keep
the ones that are spec-compatible in the circuit, and
get the job done.
You
crank up the throttle signal and put more electrical energy
(fatter pulses) into the electrodes; verify you can get
10% duty on the scope (2 - 100 usec on the horizontal
time-base). Your averaging DVM will display the 90%-10%
DC voltage across the output transistor (Vce or Vds or
Output to Ground). Set and connect DVM in the supply current
and measure .5 - 5 amps, without blowing the DVM fuse.
Now verify that you got everything you wanted.
Verify
your wiring connections using your DVM as a continuity
detector. Check your wiring 1 at a time and yellow line
your final schematic as you go. You can best use board-mount
miniature POTs for anything you want to set-and-forget.
The LEDs are there to give you a quick visual check of
normal vs abnormal operation of your new creation. You
will want to get your chamber level sensor verified before
you epoxy the cap on.
CARB/FI
CONNECTION
The
diagram also shows that fittings are required to the carb/FI
l. There are ready-made kits (such as by Impco) available
for making your pressure fittings to the carburetor or
fuel-injector as the case may be. You will necessarily
be sealing the built-in vents and making a 1-way air-intake.
The
copper mesh comprises the inadvertent backfire' protection
for the reaction chamber. Make sure that all vapor/duct
junctions are air-tight and holding full pressure without
leakage. Your new 'system' is considered successful and
properly adjusted when you get the full power range at
lower temp and minimum vapor flow without blowing the
pressure safety valve.
CHT
(or EGT) Monitor your engine temp with the CHT (cylinder
head temp) or EGT (exhaust gas temp) instead of your original
engine temp indicator (if any). Your existing gauge is
too slow for this application and will not warn you against
overheating until after you have burnt something. Make
sure that your engine runs no hotter than in the gasoline
arrangement. VDO makes a CHT gauge with a platinum sensor
that fits under your spark plug against the cylinder head
(make sure it is really clean before you re-install your
spark plug (as this is also an electrical ground).
ENGINE/EXHAUST
TREATMENT
Get
the valves replaced with stainless steel ones and get
the pistons/cylinders ceramic-treated ASAP when you have
successfully converted and run your new creation. Do not
delay as these items will rust, either by sheer use or
by neglect (i.e. letting it sit). You could make max use
of your current exhaust system by using it with your new
deal until it rusts through, then have your mechanic or
welder friend to fit a stainless steel exhaust pipe (no
catalytic converter is required). But it could be easier
and cheaper to send your existing exhaust system out for
the ceramic treatment, and then simply re-attach it to
the exhaust ports.
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