|
|
General
-
Do not discard or remove any of the old gasoline setup
components, e.g. tank, carb/FI, catalytic converter,
unless necessary. Better to always leave an easy way
to revert back to something that at least runs, just
in case. Some people are leaving their gasoline setup
completely intact, and switching back and forth at will,
just to have a backup plan.
-
Set your throttle circuit so that you get minimum vapor
flow at idle, and maximum vapor flow at full power without
blowing the pressure relief valve. In this way, you
control how 'lean' your mixture is by the strength of
the pulse (i.e. “fatness” at the optimum
pulse frequency).
-
If you just don't get enough power (at any throttle
setting), it means that you need to
(1)
change the pulse frequency, (2) change the gap between
the electrodes, (3) change the size (bigger) electrodes,
or (4) make a higher output pulse voltage (last resort).
Always use an output transistor, such as a MOSFET, that
is rated for the voltage and current you need to get the
job done. OK so you might have to play around with it
some. Isn't that where all the Fun is anyhow?
-
If you get any engine knock our loud combustions (not
compensated by adjusting the timing), it means that
you need to install an additional coil in the chamber,
and drive the coil with an additional pulse signal
(about 19 Hz on the .1sec time base (see diagram).
Here,
- you
will be slowing down the burn rate just enough so
that the vapors burn thru out the power stroke of
the piston. Be sure to include a board-mount POT to
set the correct strength of this 2nd pulse signal
into the coil. This is a stainless steel coil of about
1500 turns (thin wire) that you can arrange like a
donut around the center pipe (but NOT touching either
electrode), directly over the circular 1-5mm gap.
You want no knocking at any power/throttle setting;
smooth power only, but also no excess hydrogen leftover
from the combustion.
-
Build the canister(s) as tall as you can without compromising
your ability to mount them conveniently near the dash
panel, or in the engine compartment, as the case may
be. This way, you can always make the electrodes bigger,
if necessary without undue hardship. Remember that anything
in the engine compartment should be mounted in a bullet-proof,
vibration and temperature tolerant fashion.
-
If you have to drill a thru-hole for wiring or plumbing
thru metal, make sure to also install a grommet for
protection against chafing. Always watch your chamber
pressure range from IDLE (15-25 psi) - FULL POWER (30-60
psi). Set your safety-pressure relief-valve to 75 psi
and make sure it's rated for much higher.
-
Shut OFF the power switch and pull over if there is
any malfunction of the system. Your engine will last
longest when it still develops FULL POWER+ at some minimum
temperature that we are sure you can find, by leaning
back the Royal Vapor Flow and/or by making use of the
water-vapor cooling technique (see diagram). Keep good
mpg performance records, and periodic maintenance/inspection.
Keep it clean; save some money; clean the air; heal
the planet; happy motoring; tell a friend; enjoy your
freedom and self-empowerment.
-
There lacks documented material for perfecting this
vapor system thru a fuel injector; there may be some
details you will discover on your own as working prototypes
progress. For example, you may be restricted to inject
the hydrogen/oxygen vapor without any water vapor, as
it may rust the injectors. If engine temp and CHT is
a problem, then you will want to re-think your plan,
e.g. ceramic-coating the injectors. There is always
“replacing the FI system with a Carb.”
-
If you install the water-vapor system (for lower operating
temp/stress), you will want to lean the mixture (vapor/air)
for minimum vapor flow rate to achieve any given throttle
position (idle - max). Make sure that you get a minimum
flow for IDLE and a modestly sufficient flow for MAX,
that does the cooling job without killing the combustion.
-
If you cannot find stainless steel pipe combinations
that yield the 1-5mm gap, you can always regress back
to alternating plates of +/- electrodes.
-
If you are concerned about the water freezing in
your system, you can (a) add some
- 98%
isopropyl alcohol and re-adjust the pulse frequency
accordingly; or (b) install some electric heating
coils.
-
Do not let ANYONE ever compromise your dream, your freedom,
your independence or your truth.
1
2
3 4
5 6
7 8
|
|
|
|